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Your freezer is where most venison actually gets ruined

You did everything right in the field. Then the meat sat in a bad bag at 10 degrees for eight months. Here's how to keep a season's worth eating well.

By Wes Dunbar · Country & Skills6 min read
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The doe you took on opening weekend was handled perfectly. Clean shot, cooled fast, quartered in the shade, packed out before noon. Then you sealed it warm into thin bags, stacked ninety pounds of it into a frost-free upright next to a bag of tater tots, and in March you pulled out a gray brick of backstrap with a crust of ice crystals inside the plastic.

That's not a butchering problem. That's a storage problem, and it's the one nobody talks about because it happens slowly, in the dark, months after the fun part.

Chill it hard before it ever sees a bag

Warm meat sweats. Sweat gets sucked toward the seal bar, and a wet seal is a failed seal. Half the bags that "leak" never leaked at all, they just never sealed in the first place because there was a film of moisture across the plastic when the bar came down.

Get your cuts down to refrigerator temperature before sealing. Trays in the fridge overnight, uncovered, works fine and dries the surface a little, which helps. If you're working out of coolers on ice, blot each cut with a paper towel right before it goes in the bag.

For anything juicy — loose grind, cubed stew meat, anything you butterflied — pre-freeze it on a sheet pan for two hours first, then seal it firm. You'll get a tighter pull and a cleaner seal, and you won't watch red liquid come racing up the bag and cook itself onto the element.

The machine you buy matters less than the bag you buy

Entry-level external sealers, the countertop kind, work. Millions of deer have gone through them. Their weakness is that they need textured or channeled bags to move air, and they struggle with anything wet.

Chamber machines pull air out of the whole box, so they don't care about moisture and they run smooth, cheap, flat pouches. They're heavier and they cost real money — you're looking at several hundred dollars minimum, versus under a hundred for a basic external unit. If you process two or three animals a year for your own family, the external machine is the sane call. If you're doing a full season for an extended family, elk included, the chamber unit stops being a luxury around year two.

Whatever you run, buy bags by thickness. Three mil is thin. Four mil is the floor for anything with a bone in it. Bone fragments and shoulder blade edges will punch a pinhole you never see, and a pinhole is a slow bleed of air that turns into freezer burn by February.

Double-seal every bag. Two seal lines, a quarter inch apart. It costs you an extra three seconds and it's the single cheapest insurance in the whole operation.

Portion it the way you actually cook it

Family of four? Grind goes in one-pound packages, pressed flat. Flat matters twice: flat packages stack like books instead of rolling around, and a flat one-pound log thaws in the fridge overnight instead of taking two days.

Steaks and chops go two or four to a bag, never eight. The worst thing you can do to good meat is thaw more than you'll eat, then refreeze the remainder. Roasts go single. Shanks go single, and don't you dare grind those — cross-cut shanks braised for four hours will beat any steak on the animal and most people throw them in the burger bin out of ignorance.

Trim silver skin and every scrap of deer fat before sealing. Venison fat goes rancid in the freezer and it's the flavor people blame on "gamey" meat. If you want fat in your grind, add pork or beef fat at grind time, and know that fattier grind has a shorter freezer life than lean.

Label it like somebody official is going to read it

Write on the bag before you fill it. Sharpie on a full bag smears, and a grease pencil on frozen plastic gives up entirely.

Every package gets four things: species, cut, date, and weight. "DEER — GRIND 1LB — 11/09." That's it. Year included if you keep more than one season at a time, and you will.

Now the part hunters skip. In a lot of jurisdictions, packaged wild game in your freezer has to carry more than that. Requirements vary by state and province, and they vary a lot: some require the hunter's name, license or tag number, the species, and the date taken to stay with the meat, especially if it's being transported across state lines, stored somewhere other than your residence, given to another person, or donated to a venison program. Some have specific rules about how much identifying evidence of sex or species must remain attached. Check your own wildlife agency's regulations for the current season before you start cutting, not after. It's five minutes of reading and it's the difference between a full freezer and a very bad conversation.

0°F, and a freezer that holds it

Zero degrees Fahrenheit is the number. Buy a cheap freezer thermometer and put it in the middle of the load, not taped to the lid.

Chest freezers hold temperature better and lose less cold when opened, because cold air falls and stays put. Uprights are easier to organize and easier on your back. Chest freezers are also frequently manual-defrost, which sounds like a chore and is actually a feature: frost-free units work by cycling warm air through the box to melt frost, and those cycles are a slow, repeated attack on the surface of your meat. A chest freezer that you scrape out once a year will keep venison in better shape than a frost-free upright will.

Don't load a whole deer in at once. Warm mass raises the box temperature and slows everything's freeze. Load in stages — a couple of dozen packages, wait for them to freeze solid, then add the next batch. Spread them out against the walls for the first night rather than stacking them into a warm brick in the middle.

Rotate, or you're just storing garbage

Tape an index card inside the lid. Tally marks. Ten roasts, forty pounds grind, six packages of shank. Cross one off when you pull it. It takes four seconds and it's the only reason you'll know in June that you've got twelve pounds of grind left and three months to eat it.

Whole-muscle cuts sealed properly hold quality at 0°F for a year or more. Grind and anything with added fat run shorter — burn through those first. Oldest year forward, new year to the back. Every single time.

And have an outage plan. A full freezer holds safe temperature for about 48 hours if you leave the door shut; a half-full one, around 24. So keep it full — jugs of water in the empty space work fine and give you ice for coolers later. Put a coin on top of a frozen cup of water in the box before you leave for a week. Come home to a coin at the bottom and you know it thawed and refroze while you were gone, no matter what the display says.

The real measure

You don't get to judge your season in November. You judge it in July, when you pull the last package of grind, it's red and tight in the bag, and nobody at the table asks what's in it because it just tastes good.

That animal gave you a year of dinners. Losing it to a bad seal and a warm shelf is the only part of hunting you can't blame on the weather.

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Wes Dunbar

Country & Skills

Grew up on an acreage and never quite left. Covers trucks, trades, land, and how to do the thing yourself.

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