Seven kinds of clothes that quit before the season does

It starts at the front table. The three-for-one bin, the "doorbuster" rack by the entrance, the end-of-season clearance wall, the online ad with a model who looks like he's never sweated. Then it finishes at the register, where somebody offers a fabric-protector spray, a store card and a protection plan on a shirt. Most of it is aimed at your wallet, not your closet. Here are seven things to pass on, and what to do with the money instead.

The multipack of thin tees

What it promises: a year of shirts for the price of one.

Why skip it: Thin jersey goes see-through at the collar and underarms first, and the side seams start to twist after a few washes. Hold the shirt up to a window. If you can see your hand clearly through it, you're looking at a short life. Some makers list fabric weight on the product page. Heavier usually lasts longer, so check for it. Whatever you buy, the dryer finishes off a weak shirt early. This explains why.

Do this instead: Buy two heavier tees. Stretch the neck ribbing gently. It should spring back and lie flat. Look at the shoulder seams, too. They should sit on top of your shoulder, not slide down your arm.

When it IS worth it: Undershirts, gym shirts and anything you'll wear to paint the garage. Shirts built to be wrecked can be cheap.

Say a thin shirt costs $8 and lasts one season, and a sturdier one costs $30 and lasts four. That's an example, not a quote. The math still favors the second one, and the second one looks better in month three.

Stretch denim that's mostly stretch

What it promises: comfort from the first minute, no breaking in.

Why skip it: Look at the fiber tag. When stretch fiber makes up a big share of the fabric, the knees tend to bag and the seat thins out. The jeans feel great in the fitting room and look tired by spring. They also don't hold their shape the way a firmer denim does.

Do this instead: Buy denim with little or no stretch, and pay attention to fit. Cotton denim molds to you over a few weeks, which is the whole point. Use the checks that tell you a garment actually fits before you cut the tags off.

When it IS worth it: If your day involves ladders, crawl spaces or a lot of squatting, a bit of stretch earns its place. Just expect a shorter life and don't pay for more than you need.

Jeans and shirts sold pre-ripped and pre-faded

What it promises: a lived-in look without the living.

Why skip it: Somebody already spent the wear for you. A ripped knee is a hole waiting for an excuse, and fabric that's been scraped or treated to look old has less life left in it. You're paying full price for the part of the garment that's already gone.

Do this instead: Buy a clean, sturdy pair and let your own life fade it. Wash it less often. Turn it inside out when you do. In a year you'll own something nobody else has.

When it IS worth it: If you like the look and you know it's a one-or-two-season piece, fine. Buy it as a beater, not an investment.

The bargain dress shirt with a glued collar

What it promises: a crisp collar and a sharp look for a low price.

Why skip it: Many collars and cuffs get a layer of fused interlining, held on with adhesive. After enough washes, the adhesive can let go and the collar ripples or bubbles. Pinch the collar in the store. Look at the points and the cuffs. Check the buttons, too. Loose thread on the back is a bad sign.

Do this instead: Spend the same money on one better shirt instead of three weak ones. Wash it once at home before the return window closes. Ask the store about the return window before you pay.

When it IS worth it: You need a shirt tomorrow for one interview or one funeral and you'll rarely wear it again. Buy it, iron it, and read what to wear to a wedding, a funeral and an interview so the rest of the outfit holds up.

Acrylic and polyester sweaters that pill by January

What it promises: a warm, soft sweater for far less than wool.

Why skip it: Every knit pills somewhere. Wool does, too. The difference is how it looks afterward. Little balls on a loose-knit synthetic stay put and make the whole sweater look worn. Rub a patch of fabric against itself for ten seconds in the store. If it fuzzes right away, put it back.

Do this instead: Check the fiber tag and favor wool or cotton in a tight knit. A fabric shaver, which costs little, clears pills from a good sweater and keeps it looking sharp.

When it IS worth it: Polyester fleece for the outdoors. It's made for that job and does it well. Don't wear it to dinner.

Trousers with nothing holding them together

What it promises: dress pants at a bargain.

Why skip it: The weak points are always the same. Look inside. Check how much seam allowance is tucked under the stitching, and whether the pocket bags feel like tissue. Tug gently at the crotch seam and the belt loops. Check the zipper and the waistband hook. If a trouser is cut to the bare minimum anywhere, that's where it will split.

Do this instead: Choose a heavier cotton or wool trouser. Spend a little at a tailor to reinforce the crotch seam. It's one of the cheapest fixes and it can add years.

When it IS worth it: A growing kid who'll outgrow them in six months. Buy cheap and don't feel bad about it.

Trend pieces bought for one season

What it promises: you look current.

Why skip it: A garment designed to be dead by next season isn't built to last past it. The fit also tends to look odd a year later. Read what men are actually wearing right now, and what to skip before you buy, then ask whether you'd still want it in two years.

Do this instead: Build around the basics in ten garments that get you through almost any week. Add a trend through something small, like a hat or a belt, not through your whole wardrobe.

When it IS worth it: One trend piece you love and that fits you properly. Treat it like a rental and don't expect it to last forever.

How to say no at the counter

You don't owe anybody an explanation. A few lines that work:

• "No thanks, I'm good with what I've got."
• "I'll pass on the card today."
• "What's the return window if it doesn't hold up after one wash?"

If the clerk pushes, say "I'll think it over" and walk out. If the thing is any good, it'll still be on the rack tomorrow. If it isn't, you just kept your money, and keeping it's the best deal in the store.